Miles of walkways wind around the temple complex lined by torii gates and lanterns sponsored by donors. Tigers in cages and tigers on the prowl – their flesh of stone and wood – roam the area. Small paths lead to dead ends where the only goal is a small shrine hidden among trees. And every morning at 5 the priests awaken (you can request to be woken or sleep in) and pray.

How to get to Shigi-san

I discovered Shigi-san when all the shokubo (temple lodgings) in Nara were full and inquired at the tourist desk in the Nara station, so if you have any questions, please email me () or ask them. Shigi-san does not appear in the latest edition of Lonely Planet: Japan that I own.

The hosts of Shigisan only speak Japanese, but they go out of the way to be kind. The only way I know how to get there takes about a mile of walking at the end, but you shouldn't be packing so much stuff anyway (this is not Frommer's :), although it's probably equidistant from Osaka and Nara. There is a roadway and a parking lot, but I have never taken that way, so I'll tell you the way I know. It takes approximately 45 minutes from Nara, but Shigi-san is worth every minute.

Take the JR train for 15 minutes out of Nara toward Horyu-ji (but pass it). When you get to Oji, get off and take the local Kintetsu (non-JR) train to the town of (Shigi-san Shita), which is the first stop and 3 minutes away.

From there, go outside the station to the bus stop. Ride the bus for about 10 minutes until it reaches the top of the hill and get off (ask the driver, and show him Shigi-san's kanji). Before you is an unattractive building with a bus passenger waiting area and toilets. It's worth noting the bus time table that's posted for when you want to leave. Pass through or around the building and turn right on the first road you come to (it's narrow). Walk through the small town for about a mile (15 minutes), always staying on the road (there is little chance to wander off the way).

You'll start to pass through esoteric Buddhist gates and many small jizo. You'll know you're in the right place when you see a gigantic replica of a tiger. "You can't miss it" may be a cliché, but you can't.

The temple complex actually has three shokubo (temple lodgings), so take your pick. It has cost me 5000 to 7000 yen per person per night, which includes at least an ornate breakfast and an expansive onsen on the bottom floor.

Phone numbers for each of the shokubo are as follows:

Joufukin: 0745-72-2581
Gyokuzouin: 0745-72-2881 (the Abbot of this temple can speak some German; Japanese website http://www5.ocn.ne.jp/~gyokuzou/)
Senjuin: 0745-72-4481


Adam